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Elbulli

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Submitted By cwchang
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2. What factors made elBulli the best restaurant in the world? Which element of elBulli experience create value for customers?
(1)
我們認為有以下因素造成了elBulli餐廳成為世界最佳的餐廳: A. 創新研發: Ferran Adrià有設置研發實驗室,負責開發創意菜色。不同於一般餐廳,elBulli每年8月到3月餐廳歇業,讓廚師們可以四處旅行跟上課,尋找新技術、食材跟靈感,接著再集合一起集思廣益開發明年的新菜色。遵循Ferran Adrià所設立的流程,每年開發新的菜單,絕不重複,每次都可以帶給顧客新奇的感受跟體驗。 B. 特殊消費體驗: elBulli餐廳有別於一般餐廳,顧客一抵達餐廳,大廚Ferran Adrià會先一一跟顧客寒暄打招呼,讓顧客心理有受重視跟獨特的感覺。接著會帶顧客參觀充滿先進設備又一塵不染的廚房,不只讓顧客感受到乾淨放心,也會讓他們感受新奇又有趣。最後再帶顧客到陽台上觀賞海景跟品嘗雞尾酒,讓顧客同時享受美景跟美酒,讓用餐不只是用餐,也是一種全方位的獨特體驗。 C. 稀少性: elBulli餐廳一年有200萬人預約用餐,但是餐廳只營業180天,所以一年只開放8000名客戶消費。也就因為位子稀少、供不應求,因此也創造了餐廳的稀有性。進入elBulli餐廳用餐不是老饕就是少數幸運被抽中的人,在消費者心裡塑造一種獨特且尊榮的資格,也可讓人感覺更接近內行老饕的感覺,幫助elBulli造就世界最佳餐廳地位。 D. 顧客服務佳: elBulli餐廳只有設15桌餐桌,最多只服務50位客人。但是卻配置5位 Head Waiter和9位Waiter進行服務,所以服務人手充足。加上服務生在送上餐點時,會附上貼心地用餐提醒及教學,讓顧客心理產生被重視的感覺。 E. 地理位置: (1) 天然風景: elBulli餐廳依山傍海,風景優美,讓每個用餐的顧客都能在優美的風景下放鬆用餐,除了味覺以外也多了視覺跟聽覺的享受。 (2) 地處偏遠: elBulli位處偏遠,從巴賽隆納要開兩個小時的車程,又要經過蜿蜒的山路,由於餐廳即難到達,所以在顧客心中,增加了期待心理,加上越難取得的東西越珍惜,也讓顧客更享受費盡千辛萬苦取的用餐體驗。 F. 食材供應: elBulli餐廳所用的食材都由當地最好的供應商提供,以確保食材如:魚、肉、蔬菜、水果、香料都能維持高品質。甚至有些食材是當天由巴塞隆納的供應商耗時2小時車程送達,所以能維持高品質、新鮮的食材供應。 G. 美食家推薦: 從個案裡面看到,elBulli餐廳得到很多美食家的讚賞的品論。美食家用了很多文學跟藝術的名詞跟形容來比擬elBulli的菜,美食家把elBulli的菜比喻為藝術品,不只可以幫助建立餐廳口碑,也可以塑造餐廳形象,在顧客心中,會開始將elBulli的菜跟藝術文學作品做形象鏈結,提升餐廳在顧客心中地位。

綜觀以上討論幾點,我們發現elBulli成功的因素有創新研發、特殊消費體驗、稀少性、顧客服務佳、地理位置、食材供應、美食家推薦……等等。但是除了創新研發之外,其他六項成功因素都可以很容易被其他餐廳所複製,我們的觀點是,elBulli之所以成功,是靠著不斷創新研發的創意分子料理,帶給顧客有意想不到的消費體驗(如食材搭配、冷熱搭配、軟硬搭配、烹飪方式……等等),也就是文中所謂的『第六感』,讓顧客體驗諷刺、幽默、甚至回想到兒時回憶,讓顧客有超乎一般地感官享受。所以我們認為在elBulli餐廳的用餐體驗裡,最為顧客創造價值且不可取代正是『創新研發』。

3. What are the most salient features of the creative process at elBulli? elBulli最特別的是,他們會讓餐廳休息180天,讓員工去旅行去學習,開發接下來一年的菜單。 elBulli 在營運的過程中不同於一般餐廳注重營利,這是我們很驚訝的一點,,比起營利,elBulli更注重的是要怎麼開發出新的菜單,是要有更有創意與創新的想法;於是就像個案中所提到的,elBulli在2007年的十月就開始讓餐廳休息,然後開始一連串的行程。
一開始會先把所有人分成三組,分別有不同的課程和不同的旅行地點,最後創造出跳脫傳統框架的料理及料理的方式與技巧;而我們認為在這個過程中最特別的就是讓員工去旅行,在旅行中發現新的食材與新的料理技巧,很難想像到有一個餐廳會願意為了有新菜色而讓員工能夠去旅行,這是一個不同於常人的經營方式,因為Adrià認為創意是最重要的根本,只有離開原本所熟悉的環境,去嘗試不同地方的風土民情,才會激發出創意的火花,因此讓員工去旅行去嘗試不同環境的菜其實是一個很聰明的作法,不同的人不同的地點不同的食材,最後在經過一連串的試驗之後,才會成就出elBulli的料理,也才有這些非傳統的料理技巧與方法。

4. Are there weaknesses in the restaurant operations? How would you fix them? 我們認為elBulli最大的弱點在於他們並沒有獲利,因為他們每年皆虧損50萬歐元,而不堪虧損致使他們後來的歇業。elBulli一年只有營運180天,且客人也有限制流量,且依Adrià所言,他們的目的並非在於將分子料理煮給億萬富翁來享用,而是for sensitive people,也就是對於六個感官體驗都很敏感的、可以體會到分子料理用心的顧客,他們在一開始的定價就不高,應該可以賣到600歐的料理,他們卻僅僅以230歐售出此種營運模式讓他們收入本身就有限制。 在連年虧損的情況下,elBulli仍堅持不斷地開發新產品,將大筆成本花費在創意研發上,這也讓他們的整間餐廳營運越來越艱困。我們認為如果要解決這問題的話,elBulli可以將其心力直接專注於研發,也就是他們現在在做的,將整間餐廳轉變為單純的研發中心,將他們開發出的食譜賣給他人,而其製作過程全交由其他餐廳負責,讓分子料理這個正火熱的商機可以充分被利用,他們專注於發想,其他餐廳來完成料理。另外他們也可以繼續為食品製造商跟橄欖油或醋的製造商提供意見,幫助他們改善新的橄欖油或辣椒產品,而後續的產品製造就全交由廠商自己去完成。 elBulli可以試著去實施多角化經營的策略,內容包含食譜出版、飯店與速食經營、及食材公司的顧問。現今以非牟利形式重開的烹飪智庫,每年會邀請來自世界各地在飲食界的工作佼佼者去進行研究開發。而透過Adrià堅持的philosophy,將其完整套在他們的每一個企業上,他們無須繼續堅持始終虧損的餐廳事業,在毫無獲利的狀況下,他們賣的已經僅是一個意念、一份心意,但透過單純專精於他們的長項─創意發想與研發上,可以讓他們將自己的優勢發揮到最大化,也可以從中獲取更多的利益。 5.What should Ferran Adrià and elBulli team do next?Can the elBulli philosophy be applied to potato chips?Beef noodle?鹽酥雞?
(1)
專注於成立料理的創新研究中心。由於elBulli著重的是創新料理,且能夠接待的客人並不多,故應該把重心置於料理的創新研究,再藉由書籍出版、與飯店餐館合作、料理顧問、開授料理學程與食譜授權等方式來創造更高的營收,藉以維持料理創新研究中心之運作。
(2)
我們認為不能套用。若單純針對食物進行類似於elBulli的創新料理當然可以套用,但elBulli的成功不在於單方面食物料理方面,而是給了客人全方位的體驗。從個案中可以看見在elBulli的美食饗宴就像是參加一場奢華的宴會,從傍晚一直到深夜,在濱海別墅中享受著無他人打擾之環境,一次滿足了多層次感官的體驗,這趟創意美食饗宴帶給客人的是一個永生難忘的經驗,而不是僅僅美食帶來的衝擊。 故總結以下幾項差異,我們認為速食與攤販型式的薯條、牛肉麵和鹽酥雞是無法直接由elBulli套用過來。 1. 用餐環境─地處距離西班牙巴塞隆納2小時車程的elBulli,靠山臨海景色優美,且別墅幅地遼闊,又擁有令人放鬆的露天平台,並且每道料理都有專門服務生提供食用步驟講解等服務,這些都不是速食與攤販可以套用的;速食講究的是在固定模式之菜單下提供固定SOP的料理方式,以便以最快之速度提供餐點給顧客,而攤販因為成本問題,也不可能提供太舒適的用餐環境。 2. 變化多端的菜單─elBulli團隊每年都會推出新式菜單,同時不斷推陳出創新的食譜,對於已經有固定消費需求者的速食與攤販,要經常性的更改菜單容易導致顧客的流失。除此之外,要花費時間去研發與生產新的食譜,對攤販來說會造成人力配置上的問題。 3. 供不應求(稀少性)─每年只接待8000名客人的elBulli,因為需求量遠大於供給量,造成欲訂位者眾多。就算你是個百萬富翁,還是要成功訂位,才能夠順利進入elBulli,因此踏入elBulli進行一趟美食之旅是一件非常不容易的事情,也營造了越難得到就越珍惜的氛圍。然而速食與路邊攤屬於完全競爭市場,故生產者所追求的是大量的供給去創造營收,畢竟價格不是生產者能夠任意調整的。 4. 特殊的料理設備─對於elBulli來說因為要做出特殊的料理,需要有許多客製化的料理工具或設備;然而攤販要求的是低成本的器材設備,對攤販來說要在有限的坪數、壓低固定成本與有限的人力下去使用這些特殊設備,是一件不容易達成的事。 5. 目標客群不同─對於elBulli而言,他們接待的是希望體驗不同感受的sensitive people,且定時定量;然而對於速食者所追求的是在固定時間人力下創造最大收益,當然販售牛肉麵與鹽酥雞者也是希望盡可能在營業時間內能夠有越多顧客上門越好,因此對於不同目標客群的兩種營業模式,要把Adrià的料理哲學套用在此並不適合。
綜觀上述幾點,我們認為elBulli哲學應用在薯條、牛肉麵和鹽酥雞並不合適。

6. What should come first – creativity or the customer?
我們認為elBulli應將創意優先,原因在於這也是他們有別於其他餐廳最大的競爭優勢。elBulli在經營餐廳的期間,其實已慢慢朝向料理研究中心發展,我們可從他們的營運模式(歇業半年為了研發新菜色)、料理推陳出新,菜單絕不重複使用、定期創意發想過程、大廚Ferran Adrià的經營方針-「不因顧客喜好改變菜色,而是堅持專業能搭配出最好的料理」這些來看出。
因此少了如此頻繁且強大的創新能力,elBulli就與其他米其林餐廳別無兩樣。以高級餐廳的角度來看,這也是他們最能吸引顧客的原因之一:顧客能夠期待在elBulli有最意想不到的味覺體驗,稱職地扮演被娛樂的顧客,elBulli能帶領他們來一場最棒的料裡冒險。這種神秘氛圍,加上因研發而減少的營業時間,讓elBulli塑造成有如餐飲界的「奢侈品」,稀少性更增加顧客的購買欲望。…...

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El Bulli

...serves tapas invented at El Bulli. The other, called 41, serves snacks and cocktails. Both, inevitably, are booked out. Either way, though, the master chef of the century so far is retiring from the frontline of serving up food. "You can't win the Oscar every year," he says. "Even the people who love you will start to say: 'Oh no, not them again!' "It is not easy to step down when you are at the top and it may go badly," he adds. "But at least we will have tried it and have been consistent in our own approach to creativity." Recommendation ElBulli could be run on the same principles to continue to maintain the sustained competitive advantage that is created in elBulli laboratory and this resource can be utilized to expand their businesses. Adria has become icon and positioned himself as Brand (as printed on Frito-Lay packs) through elBulli and “Molecular Gastronomy” movement. New recipe innovation, unique dining experience at elBulli, recipe book sales continue to sustain this brand positioning for Adria if he continues on the same path currently he is. And this can be leveraged in starting up new businesses and also consulting business for himself. However, it needs to be seen whether he would continue to expand his business or would just concentrate on recipe innovation!...

Words: 707 - Pages: 3